There’ s no shortage of watches this auction season—over 1,200 lots across the major houses—but sheer volume isn’ t the point. Through Auction Walk Around’ s new YouTube channel and website, Christie's and Sotheby’s are shifting away from the early-2020s hype to showcase genuinely compelling and unexpected pieces. Last week we ran part one of our preview; here’s the rest.
CHRISTIE’S Christie’ s consistently delivers one of the subtlest yet most impressive catalogs. Let’s begin at the top.
Lot 134: Audemars Piguet Observatory-Style This unique two-tone 14k pink-gold and steel “Observatory” watch is, in Weston Cutter’s words, a “knee-weakener.” Its heavily modified 13-ligne 13VZAS movement, dedicated to time-only precision, drives a large subsidiary seconds at 9 o’clock and a blank subdial at 3 o’clock. Bold numerals and an audacious design make it a dream for early-watch collectors. Estimated CHF 50,000–100,000, many expect it to exceed that.
Lot 59: AP Platinum Cushion Single-Button Chronograph One of the first three Audemars Piguet wristwatch chronographs ever made, this platinum cushion-shaped, single-pusher ref. 59 is one of only two survivors. Restored by AP, it once belonged to Rabbi Max Schenk and then to his son-in-law, Harvard surgeon Dr. Herbert Hechtman. A pinnacle of 1930s AP design, it carries a CHF 200,000–400,000 estimate.
Lot 102: Patek Philippe Ref. 1436 Split-Seconds Chronograph This first-series 1436 (Vichet case) is more unusual than most, since the 1436 was largely superseded by the second series by 1950. Unlisted dial color and misaligned indices pointed to a later refinish—a fact Christie's has now confirmed. Having appeared (and passed) at Antiquorum in 2024 and the OAK Collection in 2023, its CHF 400,000–600,000 estimate reprises those auctions. It’s an uphill sell, but perhaps the right buyer will emerge.
Lot 100: Patek Philippe Ref. 96 Fourth Series For a more accessible vintage Patek, consider this pink-gold, black-dial fourth-series ref. 96. Confirmed by extract, it’ s estimated at CHF 12,000–25,000, though the case shows some softness.
Other Must-Sees • Rolex Ref. 1680 Prototype Submariner: One of only three known white-gold, odd-bezel prototypes, this lone black-dial example comes from the original owner’ s family— a rare window into Rolex’s 1970s prototyping. • Patek Philippe Ref. 96 with Salmon Dial: A stainless-steel time-only with raised, hard-enamel Breguet numerals—easily one of the top five ref. 96s ever. • Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 25594ST “Owl” Day-Date: A one-off dial made for AP legend Jean-Maurice Golay, as featured in Le Temps (2018).
AUCTION WALK AROUND the Catalog
Lot 8: Patek Philippe Ref. 2549 “Devil’s Horn” With its dramatic Markowski “Devil’s Horn” case, this bold time-only design carries a surprisingly low CHF 12,000–18,000 estimate, despite a $35,000 sale 15 years ago.
Lot 10: Eska Cloisonné Map Dial A cloisonné enamel watch depicting North and South America—most examples are in one Italian collection, so this is a rare chance.
Lot 11: Patek Philippe 605 HU World Time Pocket Watch A Louis Cottier–designed world-time pocket watch, estimated CHF 50,000–100,000— a relative bargain next to recent cloisonné sales.
Lot 14: F.P. Journe Tourbillon with Remontoir d’Égalité A brass-movement Tourbillon Souverain with remontoir, estimated CHF 500,000–1,000,000. It appears later in the sale, so you can chase the platinum example then return for this.
Also note a Rolex “Tuxedo” with brick bracelet in the early lots.
Pocket-Watch Highlights Lots 35, 58, 67 & 85 include several AP grand complications: a 1955 open-face model with charming patina; a 1986 yellow-gold pavé- diamond dial; and a 1941 pink-gold minute repeater by Chiappe of Genoa ( CHF 15,000–20,000). Estimates range from CHF 80,000–200,000 for the diamond-set example.
Lot 63: Patek Philippe Ref. 5029R A 35 mm limited-edition minute repeater made for Patek’ s Plan-les-Ouates factory opening, with an officer-style case by Jean-Pierre Hagmann. One of ten pink-gold pieces, another just sold in Hong Kong for ~$ 400,000. Here it’s CHF 250,000– 550,000.
Lot 114: Patek Philippe Ref. 3970EP-047 Commissioned for Michael Steven Ovitz, this platinum perpetual-calendar chronograph features his “M.S.O.” initials, a Breguet “ 12,” and luminous hands. With Lemania QP chronograph prices soaring— Christie’ s sold a matching 5004P for $1.5 million last year—its CHF 500,000– 1,000,000 estimate is fully justified.
Lot 118: Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 3700/1G “Khanjar” A newly surfaced white-gold Nautilus bearing the Omani Khanjar emblem, crown above the swords. One of three known with the crown detail (plus a fourth without), estimated CHF 400,000–750,000.
That concludes our Christie's highlights—stay tuned for the Sotheby’s breakdown. Thaks for visiting!
